Answers for Kathy

I find that I am very, very fortunate in that I have several people in my life that I really, really love and respect and who love me in return. One of these amazing women is Kathy Inman. Kathy is the mother of another amazing woman who I love and respect, my best friend, Jennifer Wright (soon to be Jennifer Knapp). She recently sent me the following email, and I thought that the answers might make an interesting blog post:

"Thank you so much for writing your blog. It is the best way to see what you are doing on your new adventure. Is it what you had hoped? Do you not know yet as you are still settling into the job? You have traveled so much, does this area differ much from others that you have experienced with the same level of poverty? I guess I am asking if the level of violence that threatens the area make it that much different than other areas that have this level or poverty? And then my other question is, did you pick the right clothes to take? That question before this left my head heavy, so I needed that last frivolous question."

So, first, you're welcome. I really enjoy writing the blog and I'm glad that its informative and that it’s being read. As I've written before, it feels good to know that someone is reading this. I have never written a blog before and it helps to imagine that a particular person is reading it, instead of the Internet at large. To answer some questions:

Is my job what I had hoped it would be? The short answer is, "yes." Working in Sudan, having this opportunity and this adventure is my dream job. I always used to joke that I “wanted to live in a grass hut and save babies”. I might not be living in a grass hut, and maybe I’m not directly saving babies… but it feels good nonetheless.

Actually, most Sudanese live in houses like these.

This is a picture of the bed in my room, complete with mosquito net, of course.

I’ll save a description of my job for another blog post in the future, but basically what I do is to ensure Program Quality. Essentially, if we say that we want to reduce child malnutrition by 20%, I measure children’s nutrition and monitor our activities so I explain why we are (or are not) meeting our goals. In many ways, I’m very suited to this job. I like creating order out of chaos, and I like the idea of standards, benchmarking, measurement and ensuring quality (I know that every German ancestor I have is smiling down on me right now for this orderly perspective). I also have been really, really blessed to have had a great education and to have met the right people at the right time. The consulting jobs that I’ve had previous to this have really prepared me to see the “big picture” and to understand what has to happen on the ground in order to make policy at a higher level.

Is Sudan what I had hoped it would be? Sudan itself is a pleasant surprise. I had expected things to be more intense (scary, violent, sad etc) than they have been so far. I need to emphasize that I have never felt personally threatened, nor have I felt that the living conditions or health risks were too high. For the most part, things in Sudan are like everywhere else. People go about their lives, working hard to feed, house and clothe their kids. Trade happens, markets function, kids run around, women have babies, families eat together--- really, at the end of the day, people are people wherever you go. The information that we get about Sudan (and in fact, much of Africa) in the States is only a part of the picture. At home, CNN never reports that millions of Americans made it home safely from work that day. They only tell us when accidents happen and people get hurt. The same works with news from Africa. That being said it would be dangerous not to recognize the stark, preventable and terrifying differences between home and Sudan.

There are horrible atrocities happening in Darfur. They are well documented and there are much better sources for understanding them than my explanations.

There are tens of thousands of people who have had to flee their homes because of cross border violence.

Children and mothers die at disgustingly high rates. (One in six children die before their 1st birthday, over 2,000 women die in childbirth per 100,000 births)

There is a great possibility that in a few short weeks, there will be a war in Sudan due to Southern secession.

As though this isn’t enough, traffic fatalities are so high that the hospital in Juba has wards devoted to motorcycle accidents. (Called the Senke ward after the preferred brand of motorcycles). There is also an entire wing for leprosy patients.

· In Western Equatoria, a 15-year old girl has a higher chance of dying in childbirth than of finishing secondary school. (This article is another great resource explaining the dire situation in South Sudan: http://pulitzercenter.org/articles/southern-sudanese-say-independence-vote-will-improve-life)

I could go on and on giving scary statistics about Sudan, the numbers don’t lie and they are awful. So, is it what I had hoped? Professionally, yes. This is the kind of environment in which I have always wanted to work. As a human being, no, it is not what I had hoped. No one would hope for/ want such conditions to exist.

Do I really yet understand where it is that I am living and what it is I have gotten myself into? Probably not. At the moment it is very new and interesting. I am sure that if I revisit these questions in 6 months, I will have different answers. At least, I hope I will because that will mean I’ve grown and learned.

Does this area differ much from others that I have experienced with the same level of poverty? Is the level of violence that threatens the area make it that much different than other areas that have this level or poverty? I have never been anywhere else with this level of poverty. So, yes there is a huge difference. The only other developing country that I have lived in for any length of time is Mongolia. There is no comparison. Mongolian children aren’t hungry, the disease rate and mortality rate aren’t nearly as high. Women aren’t married so young. There is no comparison.

In actuality, Sudan is a very resource-rich place. They could grow enough food to feed themselves and have leftovers to sell. Sudanese are smart and industrious people, I believe that if it weren’t for the violence of the last 20 years, they would have functional schools and health care facilities. Unfortunately, farmers can’t grow crops if they are constantly running for their lives. The violence prevents families from taking advantage of the rich soil of Sudan. Hunger, poverty, disease and high death rates are man-made problems.

Did I pick the right clothes to take? (And don’t worry; I need a frivolous question here and there too) J Yes, I have more or less brought the right clothes. Easily washable, natural fabrics in solid and matching colors were the way to go. My hiking shoes were a good buy. I wish I had brought one or two nicer tops to wear in the office. I also think I should have brought one nice outfit to wear to the occasional party. But, then I wouldn’t have an excuse to have beautiful African dresses made. On the 3^rd, I’m picking up some dresses that I’ve commissioned a tailor make for me. I’ll post pictures. I think they’re going to be awesome!

Thanks Kathy for the questions, I’m about to get on a train to visit some cousins in Germany, so I have to sign off now. If anyone else has questions for me, I’d be happy to answer them, either in an email or on the blog.

Hugs from Dusseldorf,

Jen

Mettman Christmas

Yesterday I discovered that my cousin Joerg reads my blog. (Hi Joerg!) It makes me feel ridiculously special to know when people read this. It also helps to write interesting things since I can picture a recipient and don't feel like everything is going into the abyss.

Here are some more photos of Christmas with my family in Germany. This was at my aunt and uncle's house in Mettman.

This is my cousin's son (My second cousin? My cousin once removed? Does anyone know what my relationship to this handsome boy is?)

My Uncle Joachim, Julia, Joerg, Ralf, Tante Anneliese, Ute, Karin and (hiding) Arno.

It is a truth universally acknowledged... Little girls all over the world love 2 things: horses and hanging upside down.

My cousin Ralf and his niece, Julia

and, just in case you missed it... more snow... we even got stuck in it driving home the other night... makes the warmth (read dusty heat) of Sudan seem like Paradise.

LA Times Editorial

This article was sent to me by my godmother, the estimable, wise and elegant Tante Patty. Thanks :)

latimes.com/news/opinion/editorials/la-ed-sudan-20101226,0,299055.story

latimes.com

Editorial

Holding out hope for Sudan

A scheduled election next month is likely to result in southern Sudan seceding from the north. But the region's problems are so numerous that the likelihood of a happy, prosperous, democratic nation coming into being is low.

December 26, 2010

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Anyone who has traveled to both the desert-like north of Sudan — where the capital city of Khartoum is located — and the flood-prone south cannot help but notice the extraordinary differences between them. The people of the north are mostly lighter-skinned, Muslim Arabs. Those in the south tend to be darker-skinned, Christian and animist rather than Muslim, more recognizably African. The north borders the Arab nations of Egypt and Libya; the south leads to Kenya, Uganda and Congo.

These disparate regions were melded into one country as part of the same blunt imperial exercise that deformed so much of the world: The British, that is, decided it should be so, creating a nearly 1-million-square-mile nation whose linguistic, cultural, racial and historical contradictions were readily apparent long before the country became independent in 1956. As independence neared, the people of the south were increasingly dominated by those in the north, pressured to adopt Arabic as their official language, subjected to increased proselytizing to convert to Islam, and ultimately placed under the political control of the government in Khartoum.

Unsurprisingly, the marriage was an unhappy one from the start, and the result has been a half-century of violence — cross-border raids from the north, kidnappings, slavery, subjugation and war. Before it was settled with a landmark, comprehensive peace agreement in 2005, the south's struggle to free itself from northern rule was the longest-running civil war in Africa, leaving some 2.5 million people dead.

Now, if you believe the optimists, those long-ago wrongs may finally be righted. As a result of the 2005 peace deal, the people of southern Sudan were granted semiautonomy and are now scheduled to vote in a Jan. 9 referendum on whether to secede entirely and form their own, separate country. The national government in Khartoum has agreed, under some duress, to abide by the results of the referendum. There are some 10 million people in the south, and an overwhelming number of those who vote are expected to opt for secession. If that happens, Africa's first new nation in nearly 20 years — the Republic of Southern Sudan, it may or may not be called — would be established.

But will it really be that easy? We hope so. It is long past time for the people of southern Sudan to undo this ludicrous geopolitical mistake. Still, the problems ahead are numerous. For one thing, there's the question of whether the north will allow the referendum to go forward at all. President Omar Hassan Ahmed Bashir — who is famous for his role in the brutal Darfur campaign and who has been charged by the International Criminal Court with war crimes and crimes against humanity — was dead-set against the referendum but caved under pressure to agree. For months, Western observers have been expecting the north to undermine the elections, by postponing them or by using proxy militias and fake dissident groups to stir up trouble and subvert their legitimacy. So far that has not happened, and the vote is now widely expected to take place.

Even if it does, the likelihood of a happy, prosperous, democratic southern Sudan coming into being is low. According to United Nations statistics released in advance of the election, 85% of the people in southern Sudan can't read. There is one teacher for every 1,000 primary school students. Southern Sudan has one of the highest maternity and infant mortality rates in the world. More than 4 million people are on "emergency assistance," meaning that they will need food handouts this year. More than 1.5 million will face "severe food insecurity."

The United States, the United Nations and former South African President Thabo Mbeki have, to their credit, been pushing for a free and fair referendum and feverishly working with both sides to ensure that it goes forward peacefully. Now the world needs to begin to figure out what happens next if it passes. What, for instance, will become of the 2.5 million southern refugees still living in the north and dependent on the northern economy for their livelihoods? Will they be expelled? Will they be automatic citizens of the south or will they be stateless? How are borders to be drawn, and will they be hard borders or soft ones? There is currently a population of several hundred thousand people — many of them pastoralists, herding cattle and other livestock across the land — who move easily on a seasonal basis from north to south, as they have for hundreds of years. Will they require visas and travel papers?

Then there's the fact that some 80% of the country's lucrative oil reserves are in the south, and the north, as might be expected, is not eager to give up the revenue they bring in. At the moment, all the oil is exported via pipelines that run through the north, and revenue is split between north and south. It's time to negotiate a post-referendum arrangement that will divide revenue fairly and in a manner that avoids triggering renewed conflict.

There's also the question of how the south will be governed. Though it is culturally and ethnically distinct from the north, southern Sudan is itself a land of dozens of tribes and scores of languages; it has been unified in recent decades only by hatred of the government in Khartoum and the common quest for independence. No one would describe the ruling Sudan People's Liberation Movement as a particularly democratic organization; it is, rather, a former guerrilla army built on a "big tent" model in which many competing groups, each with its own agenda, came together to fight. When a new government emerges, however, the impoverished people of the new country will begin demanding services, democratic governance and the rule of law — and being "anti-Khartoum" will no longer be sufficient. It is unclear how or whether the SPLM will rise to the occasion.

Finally, there are Sudan's neighbors, which are understandably nervous about the emergence of a weak and fragile new state on their borders; no one wants to live next door to the next Somalia.

All in all, there's reason for excitement and reason for concern. Six months ago, few would have expected the referendum to be proceeding as smoothly as it is. Then again, although further violence is not a certainty, it is far from unlikely. As exhilarating as election day will be, it is increasingly clear that the hard work will begin Jan. 10.

Copyright © 2010, Los Angeles Times

Christmas in Dusseldorf!

What a nice Christmas in Dusseldorf with my aunt, uncle, and cousins. Here we are at Christmas dinner. (Venison! YUM!)
Sven, myself and Kai (We're a good-looking bunch aren't we?)

Kaffe und Kuchen. German coffee and cake time. Marvelous.
Boy did it snow! It was nuts... it was cold.

Photos December

Here is a motley collection of photos from Sudan. The first is from Yambio.
Cow crossing in Juba, so much better than a traffic jam on the 405:

Tukels (the name for these Sudanese houses) . They're made out of locally produced bricks and elephant grass.

Western Equatoria is really lush, these were taken just a few meters from where I am living and working.

The Juba International airport and Boda-boda drivers-- think Sudanese taxi drivers.

Kawaja

“Kawaja” literally “white one” in Juba Arabic seems to be of equal use in identifying me in Yambio as my name.
Last night, I went for a walk with some friends from the office. Within 10 minutes we had a pack of small children following us yelling, “Kawaja! Kawaja! How are you?!?” This may be the only phrase they know in English so far.* “How are you, Kawanja?” echoed off the grass huts and dusty red road the whole evening. Every so often, I would turn around and wave, asking, “How are you?” This was inevitably met with frantic waving and giggles. Never could I have imagined that my very presence could make so many children so delighted. I felt like the Pied Piper of Yambio. Sometimes when I go out and my colleagues are speaking in Zande or Arabic, the word Kawaja slips in—as in, “Sure, I’ll take the Kawaja to the bank.”
The Kawaja.
What a strange feeling to be identified by my race, skin color, and origin. In this instance, when children are having fun with my novelty, I don’t mind, it’s charming actually.
But, all over the world, there are so many instances when differences are not celebrated or laughed over. We use them as reasons to be afraid and to close our eyes and hearts to others. I’m going to try to learn a lesson from my walk in Yambio, and confront difference with delight, not suspicion.



*Most Sudanese speak at least 3 languages: Juba Arabic, English and their tribal language. In Western Equatoria, that is Zande. I’m supposed to start Zande lessons in January.

A change of plan

There has been a small change of plan for the Christmas holiday. Due to a number of reasons, instead of spending Christmas in Sudan, I'm going to be going to Germany for the holidays to see my family there.

Pros: Christmas in Germany = good food, good family time, hot showers and the chance to buy instant oatmeal, chewing gum, gummi bears and post-its (all things I did not bring and now regret missing out on), plus hanging out with my cousins and aunt and uncle.

Cons: missing out on an African Christmas, only having jungle-appropriate clothes in Germany in December, the cost of a plane ticket from Juba to Dusseldorf, being kind of home, and yet, not quite.

On another note, I have been re-reading classic books from my childhood, Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn, not as good as I remember. Anne of Green Gables, even better.

And also, the last few weeks have been crazy; adjusting to a new country, figuring out a new job, understanding a new organization, eating too much goat, etc. Also, I'm trying to moderate my remarks in order to prevent any misunderstandings for the organization I work for as well as myself. All of this means the the quality of my writing hasn't been great. So, for the 2 people who read my blog, I'm sorry about this. It will get better and more interesting once I settle in.

Great article in Voice of America

I found an article this morning and wanted to share it with you. I'm copying it here:

South Sudan Marks Countdown to Independence Vote

The United Nations Children's Fund says it is preparing for a worst-case should conflict break out after next month's referendum on independence for Southern Sudan. UNICEF says it cannot predict what will happen, but it has to be ready to provide emergency care for hundreds of thousands of children who are among the most disadvantaged in the world.

Southern Sudan has been living in a state of relative stability since it signed a peace agreement with the north five years ago. This period of relative calm has created some opportunities for development, but not enough.

UNICEF describes the humanitarian situation there as terrible. Director of Southern Sudan Area Program, Yasmin Ali Haque, says aid agencies could be facing a humanitarian crisis as a consequence of the independence referendum in January.

She says the United Nations is working on a contingency plan to be prepared for any emergency.

"It does take into consideration that there is likely to be a resumption of conflict, in which case, there is likely to be population movements, there is going to be displacements, etc.," she said. "So, in terms of the preparedness, it is really looking at how UNICEF and other agencies would be meeting their commitments in a humanitarian crisis."

Haque says UNICEF's priority is the children of southern Sudan. She calls their situation desperate, and the statistics bear this out.

UNICEF reports for every 1,000 live births, 102 infants die.

Data show many children suffer from acute and chronic malnutrition, and southern Sudan has one of the lowest routine immunization rates in the world. More than 90 percent of the population lives on less than $1 per day. Most of the population has no access to good drinking water and most children in southern Sudan receive less than five years of primary school education.

As part of its preparations, Haque says UNICEF is putting in place a number of core services for children.

"How do we address the needs of children who are likely to be separated from their families, making sure that does not happen. Or, if it does, we have systems in place to trace the families and reunite the children with the families, especially looking at the various threats children do face in conflict situations. Whether it is recruitment by armed groups or whether the schools and health centers come under attack," she said. "Humanitarian access is another issue that we would be monitoring and advocating on."

Despite the fears, Haque says people are excited about next month's referendum. She says many people are returning from the north to the south so they can vote.

Haque says the whole issue is surrounded by a great deal of energy and enthusiasm. But she says the government, the people, and aid agencies agree they have to be prepared for whatever might happen.

Awesome Africa story in my friends blog

http://katieandjamie.wordpress.com/2010/12/14/snakes-on-a-plane-congolese-way/

Welcome to Paradise

One thing you need to know about Juba. Hotels are made out of shipping containers. No, you didn’t read that wrong. The same shipping containers that carry Wal-Mart products across the ocean, that are filled with every conceivable export and loaded onto cargo ships get recycled… into Sudanese hotels. The only way to get this across is to show you. I give you Juba’s finest, the Paradise hotel. (my home for the first week I was here and, no I am not making this name up)

Welcome to Paradise!

Let's call this the "hallway"


This is an inside shot of the rooms. That blue thing you see hanging over the bed is a mosquito net that's been tied up for the daytime. Every night we all use them to prevent getting bitten and sick.

This is the Juba Raha hotel, I stayed here the first night. I feel like this picture really helps one to understand the "luxury" of container living...

The Paradise does have a courtyard where you can have a cold Tusker and chat with some friends.

Actually, its not so bad, kind of ingenious in a way. Also, its ridiculously expensive, a stay here costs about $120 US. The recent influx of aid workers and business have turned Juba into a bit of a boom town.

Mulit-culti

Two weeks ago, I was enjoying a last round of good-byes in California. In addition to the pleasure of seeing my nearest and dearest I ate really, really well.


I breakfasted in Del Mar at a café with my God-parents, I spent an un-traditional Thanksgiving with my best friend, her fiancé, mom and friends, I had my Grandmother’s spaghetti, my Mom made spareribs and sauerkraut and my Dad made rouladen with red cabbage and potato dumplings. I feasted on Indonesian food in LA and Indian in the Valley. I had sushi in Lancaster and really awesome Mexican in Lake Los Angeles. I basically tried to eat my way through the ethnic foods of Southern California- which, to me, are comfort foods. Though I love the German recipes of my parents, I also love enchiladas, sashimi, stuffing, latte’s and hot dogs. (maybe that’s still the German side of me).


Its not only food that makes its way around the world. While I was travelling, I was again struck by how multi-cultural our planet has become. On the first leg of my journey, I was sitting next to a kindergarten teacher from Minnesota. She was the epitome of a generous, warm-hearted mid-westerner. When we got off the plane, she gave me a hug and told me she’d be praying for me. On the trip from Minnesota to Amsterdam, I sat with 2 Kenyan business men, we talked politics and had a good laugh. I set down in Nairobi and was surrounded by people from countries all over Africa, Europeans, Asians, Americans too. I stood in the customs line with a Canadian student, a NY firefighter and an Austrian couple. So many different people, all doing the same thing. All impatiently waiting for our luggage, all commenting on the crying babies on the plane.
I arrived here in Juba, and began to meet my co-workers. One of my bosses grew up in America but her mom is Jamaican and her dad Sudanese, my supervisor is from Zimbabwe. My colleagues are from Bangladesh and Kenya. One of my other bosses is Senegalese. There’s a Brit, a Burundian, a Croatian, another American-- people from all over. Even in Juba (more on this later) there are Italian, Chinese, Thai, Indian and Sudanese restaurants.


I keep thinking about my multi-cultural world. Last week, Sudan seemed so very far away. Even with all this multi-culturalism around us, there are still places that are mysteries. Sudan occupies this space in our collective minds somewhere in between Lawrence of Arabia and a George Clooney tele-a-thon. None of us know that much about it, and for a country that is the size of Europe (the largest in Africa) we only know pieces of stories about Darfur, Gordon of Khartoum the janjaweed. I was excited for this job of a lifetime, but I’d be lying if I said it didn’t make me nervous- this alien-ness, this totally new mystery. But now, after my first week, I have to tell you… in many ways, its just like everywhere else. There are mostly good, friendly people, kids running around, animals, traffic, food, bureaucrats, work. Yes, there are more problems, and yes, they are much bigger problems, but people are still people. We’re a species that’s hard to get down for long. There is renewal and compassion here. There is a striving for a better life. And, even though this country has had more than its fair share of strife; even though there is an election coming that could see the birth of a nation and the beginning of another war, there is hope. I’m fortunate to be here, I’m lucky to be adding a Sudanese piece to my personal culture. Oh, and Sudanese food… pretty darn good.

(While we’re on the subject, this was the view at dinner my first night here. That is the Nile. Yes, THE NILE. I could barely chew my food because I was smiling so much)

Carbon credit?

Here in Yambio all of our electricity comes from a generator. So, in an effort to conserve fuel, the schedule for when the electricity functions goes like this:
8am to noon: ON
noon to 2 pm: OFF
2 to 5: ON
5 to 7: OFF
7 to 11 pm: ON
11 pm to 8 am: OFF

Then again, there aren’t any blow dryers, curling irons, televisions, stereos, air conditioning systems, heaters, water heaters, washing machines, or dishwashers. There is a freezer, but we only store water in it. Basically, its enough to ensure that we can charge our computers and see at night before bed-time.

Also, everything I eat is locally sourced, totally organic, grass fed and hand-made. No processed foods, sugar, caffeine etc. Its probably one of the world's shortest food chains. This kind of living would normally be something that I'm a huge proponent of...

On the other hand, every day for the last week, I've eaten some combination of goat, rice, ugali and greens and oddly, I am also starting to smell distinctly goat-like...

For anyone who has ever read Tim Robbins "jitterbug perfume" you know I should be worried about that goat smell :)

*note: what's Ugali? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ugali

The Twist

Tonight, I spent my evening dancing to "The Twist" at a Kenyan Independance Day Party, in Yambio. Bliss.

Quick update

Dear friends and family,

I have a quick update for you now... but I have been collecting some great adventures in the last week. I'll write a LONG post with all of my stories this weekend. In the meantime, I'm happy, healthy, loving my co-workers and really looking forward to the work. Right now, I'm in Juba, the capitol of Southern Sudan. We have our headquarters here.

I'll be leaving on Thursday for Yambio. I've been trying to do my research about the place that I am going to be living. Here's what I know so far:

1. I'll be living in a compound where the staff housing and office are.

2. There are about 150 staff members in this region, about 10 of us are international staff.

3. Western Equatoria is supposed to be the best region in the country in terms of weather and food. Its warm but not hot. They are supposed to have lots of fresh vegetables and fruits. I hear its the breadbasked of Sudan and agriculture is big. I also found out that its mango season, which I'm looking forward to. There is a rainy season that lasts about 8 months. Its supposed to rain everyday.

4. There are flying poisonous snakes. (I'm trying not to dwell on this and am hoping that its not really true...)

5. Western Equatoria is one of the poorest regions in the country. It has the highest maternal mortality rate in the world. And a literacy rate of only 10%. Most of the population lives on less than half a dollar a day. I just read an article that cites UN statistics. It says that, "(in Western Equatoria) a 15-year old girl has a greater chance of dying in child birth than of finishing school"

I'll be in Yambio by Thursday and then the real work and fun starts.


Here is a photo of Liu, in Western Equatoria from a blog called Skyscraper city.

Get in touch

Hello friends and family,

I have some contact information for myself here in Sudan.

• The best way to reach me is via email at: jneelsen@gmail.com
• You can also Skype me: jenniferjillmonique
• I have a Skype phone number too. If I am online and signed into Skype, you can call this number and it will ring on my computer. If you are calling from the States it will be like a local call for you. The connection may not be great all of the time, but it would be great to hear a familiar voice. (661) 524-7014
• Contrary to my previous opinion, I can receive mail. However, I do not think that this is going to be very reliable. If you do send something, please make sure its not valuable, perishable, vulnerable to heat or jostling. Also, it may take several weeks/ months to get me if it arrives at all. The main office will get it to me at my site. Please send mail to:

Jennifer Neelsen

c/o World Vision South Sudan

All Saints Cathedral- ECS Juba

Opp. Juba One Girl's Basic Primary School

PO BOX 180 JUBA

South Sudan

What am I taking with me to Africa?

I had a request for a blog post about what was on my packing list. (thanks Mrs. Barnes) This is what I brought in my attempt to mount an expedition to Sudan. Most useful items so far? Hand sanitizer and the sleeping sheet. Anything you think I forgot?

Clothes:

1 pair long hiking pants treated with insecticide
2 pairs hemp/ cotton blend Patagonia trousers
1 pair 100% cotton Capri pants
15 pairs underwear
6 pairs hiking socks
2 sock liners
1 pair Vasque high top hiking boors with Gore Tex
4 long sleeved cotton button up shirts
4 cotton tank tops
4 t-shirts
1 pair pyjama pants
1 pair yoga pants
1 long skirt
1 knee length skirt
3 sports bras
3 regular bras
1 fleece jacket
1 lightweight rain jacket
1 Tulane University baseball cap
1 hat with flap in the back (very sexy)
1 pair black slacks
1 pair flip flops
Sandals
Slip-on shoes
Bath robe
Office Supplies (perhaps a luxury category… but important for my mental health and efficiency)
Sharpies
Colour pencils
Sketchbook
Computer cable
Laptop
3 blank notebooks
Pencils
Scientific calculator
Anti-bug supplies
Mosquito net
Sleeping sheet treated with insecticide
2 cans Permethrin clothing and gear treatment spray
3 cans Ben’s 30% DEET tick and insect repellent
4 tubes UltraThon inset repellent
Preventative Health Items and Meds
4 packages Chlorine Dioxide Water Purification Tablets
1 Water purification filter system with bag
1 International travel medical kit with syringe and sutures
SteriPen water purifier
Moleskin
Medical gloves
Non-stick gauze pads
Band-aids
Cotton balls
Medical tape
Tums (lots of these, not surprisingly I’ve had a sour stomach for weeks)
Dayquil
Nyquil
3 small bottles antibacterial hand sanitizer
20 packets Emergen-C
Thermometer
Homeopathic throat spray
Tylolhot (some sort of powder you add to hot water that I bought in Turkey once, the best cure for a head cold or flu you can find)
Imodium
Zantac
Allergy meds
Tylenol
First aid ointment
Antifungal cream
2 bottles SPF 70 face sunscreen
Hibiclens (surgical strength antibacterial soap)
Multi vitamins (Nature Made Multi for Her)
Hydrocortisone cream
HS3 (a homeopathic cure-all salve)
Ace bandage
Entertainment
DVD’s
Various fitness DVD’s (Jillian Michaels Power Yoga, Yoga Booty Ballet, Hip Hop Abs and Morning AM Yoga)
IPod
Small, battery powered, iPod speaker
Nook
Quiddler
UNO
Photo album with family photos
Yoga mat (a serious luxury item, I realize)
Reference Books
Work-related reference books:
RealWorld Evaluation
The Good Enough Guide: Impact Measurement and Accountability in Emergencies
The Sphere Project Handbook
SPSS: Survival Manual
Principles of Statistics
The Arabic Alphabet: How to Read and Write it
Bible
Toiletries
Super absorbent camping towel
6 small packets of Kleenex
4 razors
Floss
4 Chapsticks
2 packets of 30 facial cleansing towelettes
Q-tips
Hair ties
Bobby pins
Headbands
Baby powder
3 bars soap
2 toothbrushes
Scrunchies
Finger-nail brush
Eye cream
Night cream
Baby wipes (family pack)
2 deodorants
2-in-1 everyday clean shampoo and conditioner
Vaseline
Hairbrush
2 large containers contact lens solution
2 small bottles contact lens solution
Extra contact lenses (6 month supply)
Emory board, cuticle sticks, nail clipper
Small mirror
Miscellanea
Fabric and a dress pattern to have a dress made for Jyn and Josh’s wedding (yay!)
Camelback and backpack
Tote bag for grocery shopping
Stuffed animal
2 pairs of glasses
2 pairs of sunglasses
2 solar powered watches
Leatherman multi-tool (the use of which is probably the most likely source of danger for me in Africa)
Sewing kit
2011 weekly planner
Water bottle
Lighter
Chewing gum
Camera
Money-belt
24 AA batteries

Note for second career option: This all fits into 2 large bags + 1 carry-on and a purse, all of which I can carry by myself for at least 15 minutes. I can see the business cards now…

Jennifer Neelsen.

Services offered include: ruthless German efficiency and organization

applied to luggage planning and packing.

HOW TO PREPARE TO MOVE TO AFRICA IN 3 WEEKS:

If you ever find yourself needing to move to the heart of Africa in 3 short weeks, may I suggest that the following are things to do/ think about:
1. Constantly have a pen and paper handy (even in the middle of the night) for those moments when you suddenly think of something you have to do/ have before you go. These are generally things that you think you couldn’t possibly survive without. For example, surgical strength soap, extra batteries for your flashlight and the stuffed animal you’ve had since childhood. (yes, I’m 26 years old—so what?)
2. Hug everyone. Do this multiple times if possible. This is not part of some morbid “what if I never see you again” scenario. Rather, it is for 2 reasons. (they are both selfish) First, hugs let your friends and family know how much you love and appreciate their support. (Thanks!) If they don’t know, they may not feel bad about not sending you emails, commenting on your blog (hint), Skype-ing with you, writing you letters and including you in their prayers. Guilt is a powerful motivator. WAY better than good-will.
Second, strangers do not hug you (regardless of the continent, I recommend staying away from those who do) Since you will be moving to a new place where you do not know anyone, everyone will be a stranger at first. Hugs from sane people will be sparse. Physical contact with others is important. It keeps you grounded, healthier and happier. Get them in now, while you still can.
3. If you are afraid of getting sick, rickety planes, germs, smelly people, different people, other people in general, not knowing what the heck is going on, not having a plan, not sticking to a plan, having a plan totally screwed up by Dutch baggage handlers, not understanding taxi drivers when they speak to you, not understanding if someone is a taxi driver or just a guy with a car, traffic without rules, bathrooms without toilets, opening your mouth in the shower, not showering, second hand smoke, other people’s babies sitting on your lap, other people’s goats sitting on your lap, or being outside of your comfort zone in any way, GET OVER IT. Worrying will not help, these things will likely happen, just accept them and revel in the adventure of life.
4. You will have to get a lot of shots. A LOT. Also, it will not be possible to get all of these shots in one place. Only some physicians will be able to give you certain vaccinations. You will have to call around. Doctors offices will not return your calls. Its useful to know that if the CDC lists a clinic as offering yellow fever vaccinations, that does not mean that clinic offers yellow fever vaccinations. It does not even mean that the medical assistant answering the phone will have ever heard of yellow fever. She will also not schedule you an appointment. Also, note that some vaccinations interact negatively with others. Your doctor(s) will not tell you this. Despite your advanced degree in International Public Health, you may not know this. You pharmacist may in fact utter the phrase, “Well, at this point, I’d say you have to decide if you want to get malaria or typhoid… because you can’t take both pills in time.”
5. Have confidence in yourself and your dreams. If you have always wanted to move to Africa to do aid work, if you’ve been talking about it since you were a teenager, if you spent a lot of money and time getting a Master degree to prepare you to do this, they go confidently forward. Even if the VAST majority of other people tell you that you are insane, crazy, nuts, out of your mind, brave?, have totally lost it etc. Conviction makes up for a lot.
6. Listen to the advice of your friends. Some gems:
a. From Sara- Soak up all the positivity you can before you go. Have fun, avoid the drama. You’ll need those memories.
b. From Clayton- Shut up and stop worrying about it. For God’s sake, you’re moving to Sudan, stop worrying about the little crap, prepare your heart.
c. From my mom- Jennifer, you’re too trusting, remember that there are bad people out there.
d. From Darren- You are NOT going to Sudan to personally save every child. You are there to measure them. Do not do anything stupid, it probably won’t help the little feckers anyway.
e. From Dolores- WATCH YOUR PURSE!… (you have all your belongings stolen by an Italian thief once and you hear about it for life)
7. Recognize how very, very fortunate you are to have such amazing friends, supportive and loving family members, the chance to do your dream job and make the world better while you do it, the opportunity for adventure, and the luck to have had such great mentors (Nathan and my dad), bosses (Nancy, Eleanor, Annette, Isabelle) colleagues (Apollo, Jasenko, Sofia, Meg, Chelsea, Peter. Lilian), teachers (Mrs Barnes, Sue, Nathan again, Sabrina) and friends (far, far too many to list).
8. Do not despair if you go to the drugstore every single day before you leave. You need lots of baby wipes, sunscreen, q-tips, immodium, soap, and band-aids to mount a one-woman, year-long expedition to Yambio.
9. Try, really, really try to pack in such a way that you can carry ALL of your bags at once for at least 15 minutes. There is a fine line between over packing and good preparation. You probably never need more than you can carry.
Have fun, you’ll make it. At some point you may even find yourself sitting in the airport in Kenya, waiting to get on a flight to Juba, writing a blog post, chuckling at your stress.

traveller? tourist?

"Travellers vs. Tourists: There is a wonderful, but neglected precision in these words. The old English noun "travel" (in the sense of a journey) was originally the same word as "travail" (meaning "trouble," "work," or "torment").... Significantly, too, the word "tour" in "tourist" was derived by back-formation from the Latin "tornus," which in turn came from the Greek word for a tool describing a circle. The traveler, then was working at something; the tourist was a pleasure-seeker. The traveler was active; he went strenuously in search of people, of adventure, of experience. The tourist is passive; he expects interesting things to happen to him." -Daniel J Boorstin http://quotes.dictionary.com/search/latin

I was going to post this quote before I left... focusing on the adventure part of travel. After a few weeks, I am beginning to understand the "trouble" part of this definition.

All is well in Sudan, I'm fine. The work is good as are the people. But, nothing is ever as easy as it sounds at first.

Where the heck am I going?

Hello friends and family,
OK, so the first big question is: Where is Sudan?
Sudan is in Africa, just below Egypt (its one of the light green countries on this map). Its the largest country in Africa, and it is roughly the size of Europe.

Full name: Republic of Sudan
Population: 43.2 million (UN, 2010)
Capital: Khartoum
Area: 2.5 million sq km (966,757 sq miles)
Major languages: Arabic, English (official), others
Major religions: Islam, Christianity, Animism
Life expectancy: 58 years (men), 61 years (women) (UN)
Monetary unit: Sudanese pound
Main exports: Oil, cotton, sesame, livestock and hides, gum arabic
GNI per capita: US $1,220 (World Bank, 2009)
-BBC has a country profile of Sudan: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/africa/country_profiles/820864.stm

The CIA World Fact Book provides a nice summary of Sudanese history and background as well as an explanation of its geography etc.: https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/su.html

Also, I recommend this book if anyone wants to read further:

http://www.amazon.com/Sudan-Darfur-Failure-African-State/dp/0300162731

So, next question: where will I be in Sudan? I will be living in Southern Sudan in the State of Western Equatoria, on the border of the Democratic Republic of the Congo, in a town called Yambio.

World Vision has some information on their website about their work in Sudan: http://www.wvafrica.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=152&Itemid=169

Yambio is 4 degrees north of the equator. Its apparently hot and sticky and tropical.
Because of its proximity to the equator, days are basically 12 hours long all year. And, I just learned (thank you Darren) that dawn and dusk only last a few minutes each.
Check out this link, then look up California or for an even better contrast somewhere in Scandinavia. http://www.gaisma.com/en/location/yambio.html

That's it for now. Expect more entertaining posts to come.
Love, J

Welcome to my blog!

Hello friends!

It seems like I am taking off on my next adventure... to SUDAN! I will post more as I have time and as I get more information. For the moment, subscribe to the blog so that you get an email alert when I post something new.

Ciao! J