Christmas in Dusseldorf!

What a nice Christmas in Dusseldorf with my aunt, uncle, and cousins. Here we are at Christmas dinner. (Venison! YUM!)
Sven, myself and Kai (We're a good-looking bunch aren't we?)

Kaffe und Kuchen. German coffee and cake time. Marvelous.
Boy did it snow! It was nuts... it was cold.

Photos December

Here is a motley collection of photos from Sudan. The first is from Yambio.
Cow crossing in Juba, so much better than a traffic jam on the 405:

Tukels (the name for these Sudanese houses) . They're made out of locally produced bricks and elephant grass.

Western Equatoria is really lush, these were taken just a few meters from where I am living and working.

The Juba International airport and Boda-boda drivers-- think Sudanese taxi drivers.

Kawaja

“Kawaja” literally “white one” in Juba Arabic seems to be of equal use in identifying me in Yambio as my name.
Last night, I went for a walk with some friends from the office. Within 10 minutes we had a pack of small children following us yelling, “Kawaja! Kawaja! How are you?!?” This may be the only phrase they know in English so far.* “How are you, Kawanja?” echoed off the grass huts and dusty red road the whole evening. Every so often, I would turn around and wave, asking, “How are you?” This was inevitably met with frantic waving and giggles. Never could I have imagined that my very presence could make so many children so delighted. I felt like the Pied Piper of Yambio. Sometimes when I go out and my colleagues are speaking in Zande or Arabic, the word Kawaja slips in—as in, “Sure, I’ll take the Kawaja to the bank.”
The Kawaja.
What a strange feeling to be identified by my race, skin color, and origin. In this instance, when children are having fun with my novelty, I don’t mind, it’s charming actually.
But, all over the world, there are so many instances when differences are not celebrated or laughed over. We use them as reasons to be afraid and to close our eyes and hearts to others. I’m going to try to learn a lesson from my walk in Yambio, and confront difference with delight, not suspicion.



*Most Sudanese speak at least 3 languages: Juba Arabic, English and their tribal language. In Western Equatoria, that is Zande. I’m supposed to start Zande lessons in January.

A change of plan

There has been a small change of plan for the Christmas holiday. Due to a number of reasons, instead of spending Christmas in Sudan, I'm going to be going to Germany for the holidays to see my family there.

Pros: Christmas in Germany = good food, good family time, hot showers and the chance to buy instant oatmeal, chewing gum, gummi bears and post-its (all things I did not bring and now regret missing out on), plus hanging out with my cousins and aunt and uncle.

Cons: missing out on an African Christmas, only having jungle-appropriate clothes in Germany in December, the cost of a plane ticket from Juba to Dusseldorf, being kind of home, and yet, not quite.

On another note, I have been re-reading classic books from my childhood, Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn, not as good as I remember. Anne of Green Gables, even better.

And also, the last few weeks have been crazy; adjusting to a new country, figuring out a new job, understanding a new organization, eating too much goat, etc. Also, I'm trying to moderate my remarks in order to prevent any misunderstandings for the organization I work for as well as myself. All of this means the the quality of my writing hasn't been great. So, for the 2 people who read my blog, I'm sorry about this. It will get better and more interesting once I settle in.

Great article in Voice of America

I found an article this morning and wanted to share it with you. I'm copying it here:

South Sudan Marks Countdown to Independence Vote

The United Nations Children's Fund says it is preparing for a worst-case should conflict break out after next month's referendum on independence for Southern Sudan. UNICEF says it cannot predict what will happen, but it has to be ready to provide emergency care for hundreds of thousands of children who are among the most disadvantaged in the world.

Southern Sudan has been living in a state of relative stability since it signed a peace agreement with the north five years ago. This period of relative calm has created some opportunities for development, but not enough.

UNICEF describes the humanitarian situation there as terrible. Director of Southern Sudan Area Program, Yasmin Ali Haque, says aid agencies could be facing a humanitarian crisis as a consequence of the independence referendum in January.

She says the United Nations is working on a contingency plan to be prepared for any emergency.

"It does take into consideration that there is likely to be a resumption of conflict, in which case, there is likely to be population movements, there is going to be displacements, etc.," she said. "So, in terms of the preparedness, it is really looking at how UNICEF and other agencies would be meeting their commitments in a humanitarian crisis."

Haque says UNICEF's priority is the children of southern Sudan. She calls their situation desperate, and the statistics bear this out.

UNICEF reports for every 1,000 live births, 102 infants die.

Data show many children suffer from acute and chronic malnutrition, and southern Sudan has one of the lowest routine immunization rates in the world. More than 90 percent of the population lives on less than $1 per day. Most of the population has no access to good drinking water and most children in southern Sudan receive less than five years of primary school education.

As part of its preparations, Haque says UNICEF is putting in place a number of core services for children.

"How do we address the needs of children who are likely to be separated from their families, making sure that does not happen. Or, if it does, we have systems in place to trace the families and reunite the children with the families, especially looking at the various threats children do face in conflict situations. Whether it is recruitment by armed groups or whether the schools and health centers come under attack," she said. "Humanitarian access is another issue that we would be monitoring and advocating on."

Despite the fears, Haque says people are excited about next month's referendum. She says many people are returning from the north to the south so they can vote.

Haque says the whole issue is surrounded by a great deal of energy and enthusiasm. But she says the government, the people, and aid agencies agree they have to be prepared for whatever might happen.

Awesome Africa story in my friends blog

http://katieandjamie.wordpress.com/2010/12/14/snakes-on-a-plane-congolese-way/

Welcome to Paradise

One thing you need to know about Juba. Hotels are made out of shipping containers. No, you didn’t read that wrong. The same shipping containers that carry Wal-Mart products across the ocean, that are filled with every conceivable export and loaded onto cargo ships get recycled… into Sudanese hotels. The only way to get this across is to show you. I give you Juba’s finest, the Paradise hotel. (my home for the first week I was here and, no I am not making this name up)

Welcome to Paradise!

Let's call this the "hallway"


This is an inside shot of the rooms. That blue thing you see hanging over the bed is a mosquito net that's been tied up for the daytime. Every night we all use them to prevent getting bitten and sick.

This is the Juba Raha hotel, I stayed here the first night. I feel like this picture really helps one to understand the "luxury" of container living...

The Paradise does have a courtyard where you can have a cold Tusker and chat with some friends.

Actually, its not so bad, kind of ingenious in a way. Also, its ridiculously expensive, a stay here costs about $120 US. The recent influx of aid workers and business have turned Juba into a bit of a boom town.