Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Mulit-culti

Two weeks ago, I was enjoying a last round of good-byes in California. In addition to the pleasure of seeing my nearest and dearest I ate really, really well.


I breakfasted in Del Mar at a cafĂ© with my God-parents, I spent an un-traditional Thanksgiving with my best friend, her fiancĂ©, mom and friends, I had my Grandmother’s spaghetti, my Mom made spareribs and sauerkraut and my Dad made rouladen with red cabbage and potato dumplings. I feasted on Indonesian food in LA and Indian in the Valley. I had sushi in Lancaster and really awesome Mexican in Lake Los Angeles. I basically tried to eat my way through the ethnic foods of Southern California- which, to me, are comfort foods. Though I love the German recipes of my parents, I also love enchiladas, sashimi, stuffing, latte’s and hot dogs. (maybe that’s still the German side of me).


Its not only food that makes its way around the world. While I was travelling, I was again struck by how multi-cultural our planet has become. On the first leg of my journey, I was sitting next to a kindergarten teacher from Minnesota. She was the epitome of a generous, warm-hearted mid-westerner. When we got off the plane, she gave me a hug and told me she’d be praying for me. On the trip from Minnesota to Amsterdam, I sat with 2 Kenyan business men, we talked politics and had a good laugh. I set down in Nairobi and was surrounded by people from countries all over Africa, Europeans, Asians, Americans too. I stood in the customs line with a Canadian student, a NY firefighter and an Austrian couple. So many different people, all doing the same thing. All impatiently waiting for our luggage, all commenting on the crying babies on the plane.
I arrived here in Juba, and began to meet my co-workers. One of my bosses grew up in America but her mom is Jamaican and her dad Sudanese, my supervisor is from Zimbabwe. My colleagues are from Bangladesh and Kenya. One of my other bosses is Senegalese. There’s a Brit, a Burundian, a Croatian, another American-- people from all over. Even in Juba (more on this later) there are Italian, Chinese, Thai, Indian and Sudanese restaurants.


I keep thinking about my multi-cultural world. Last week, Sudan seemed so very far away. Even with all this multi-culturalism around us, there are still places that are mysteries. Sudan occupies this space in our collective minds somewhere in between Lawrence of Arabia and a George Clooney tele-a-thon. None of us know that much about it, and for a country that is the size of Europe (the largest in Africa) we only know pieces of stories about Darfur, Gordon of Khartoum the janjaweed. I was excited for this job of a lifetime, but I’d be lying if I said it didn’t make me nervous- this alien-ness, this totally new mystery. But now, after my first week, I have to tell you… in many ways, its just like everywhere else. There are mostly good, friendly people, kids running around, animals, traffic, food, bureaucrats, work. Yes, there are more problems, and yes, they are much bigger problems, but people are still people. We’re a species that’s hard to get down for long. There is renewal and compassion here. There is a striving for a better life. And, even though this country has had more than its fair share of strife; even though there is an election coming that could see the birth of a nation and the beginning of another war, there is hope. I’m fortunate to be here, I’m lucky to be adding a Sudanese piece to my personal culture. Oh, and Sudanese food… pretty darn good.

(While we’re on the subject, this was the view at dinner my first night here. That is the Nile. Yes, THE NILE. I could barely chew my food because I was smiling so much)

Carbon credit?

Here in Yambio all of our electricity comes from a generator. So, in an effort to conserve fuel, the schedule for when the electricity functions goes like this:
8am to noon: ON
noon to 2 pm: OFF
2 to 5: ON
5 to 7: OFF
7 to 11 pm: ON
11 pm to 8 am: OFF

Then again, there aren’t any blow dryers, curling irons, televisions, stereos, air conditioning systems, heaters, water heaters, washing machines, or dishwashers. There is a freezer, but we only store water in it. Basically, its enough to ensure that we can charge our computers and see at night before bed-time.

Also, everything I eat is locally sourced, totally organic, grass fed and hand-made. No processed foods, sugar, caffeine etc. Its probably one of the world's shortest food chains. This kind of living would normally be something that I'm a huge proponent of...

On the other hand, every day for the last week, I've eaten some combination of goat, rice, ugali and greens and oddly, I am also starting to smell distinctly goat-like...

For anyone who has ever read Tim Robbins "jitterbug perfume" you know I should be worried about that goat smell :)

*note: what's Ugali? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ugali

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

The Twist

Tonight, I spent my evening dancing to "The Twist" at a Kenyan Independance Day Party, in Yambio. Bliss.

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Quick update

Dear friends and family,

I have a quick update for you now... but I have been collecting some great adventures in the last week. I'll write a LONG post with all of my stories this weekend. In the meantime, I'm happy, healthy, loving my co-workers and really looking forward to the work. Right now, I'm in Juba, the capitol of Southern Sudan. We have our headquarters here.

I'll be leaving on Thursday for Yambio. I've been trying to do my research about the place that I am going to be living. Here's what I know so far:

1. I'll be living in a compound where the staff housing and office are.

2. There are about 150 staff members in this region, about 10 of us are international staff.

3. Western Equatoria is supposed to be the best region in the country in terms of weather and food. Its warm but not hot. They are supposed to have lots of fresh vegetables and fruits. I hear its the breadbasked of Sudan and agriculture is big. I also found out that its mango season, which I'm looking forward to. There is a rainy season that lasts about 8 months. Its supposed to rain everyday.

4. There are flying poisonous snakes. (I'm trying not to dwell on this and am hoping that its not really true...)

5. Western Equatoria is one of the poorest regions in the country. It has the highest maternal mortality rate in the world. And a literacy rate of only 10%. Most of the population lives on less than half a dollar a day. I just read an article that cites UN statistics. It says that, "(in Western Equatoria) a 15-year old girl has a greater chance of dying in child birth than of finishing school"

I'll be in Yambio by Thursday and then the real work and fun starts.


Here is a photo of Liu, in Western Equatoria from a blog called Skyscraper city.









Friday, December 3, 2010

Get in touch

Hello friends and family,

I have some contact information for myself here in Sudan.

  • The best way to reach me is via email at: jneelsen@gmail.com
  • You can also Skype me: jenniferjillmonique
  • I have a Skype phone number too. If I am online and signed into Skype, you can call this number and it will ring on my computer. If you are calling from the States it will be like a local call for you. The connection may not be great all of the time, but it would be great to hear a familiar voice. (661) 524-7014
  • Contrary to my previous opinion, I can receive mail. However, I do not think that this is going to be very reliable. If you do send something, please make sure its not valuable, perishable, vulnerable to heat or jostling. Also, it may take several weeks/ months to get me if it arrives at all. The main office will get it to me at my site. Please send mail to:
Jennifer Neelsen
c/o World Vision South Sudan
All Saints Cathedral- ECS Juba
Opp. Juba One Girl's Basic Primary School
PO BOX 180 JUBA
South Sudan

Thursday, December 2, 2010

What am I taking with me to Africa?

I had a request for a blog post about what was on my packing list. (thanks Mrs. Barnes) This is what I brought in my attempt to mount an expedition to Sudan. Most useful items so far? Hand sanitizer and the sleeping sheet. Anything you think I forgot?

Clothes:
1 pair long hiking pants treated with insecticide
2 pairs hemp/ cotton blend Patagonia trousers
1 pair 100% cotton Capri pants
15 pairs underwear
6 pairs hiking socks
2 sock liners
1 pair Vasque high top hiking boors with Gore Tex
4 long sleeved cotton button up shirts
4 cotton tank tops
4 t-shirts
1 pair pyjama pants
1 pair yoga pants
1 long skirt
1 knee length skirt
3 sports bras
3 regular bras
1 fleece jacket
1 lightweight rain jacket
1 Tulane University baseball cap
1 hat with flap in the back (very sexy)
1 pair black slacks
1 pair flip flops
Sandals
Slip-on shoes
Bath robe
Office Supplies (perhaps a luxury category… but important for my mental health and efficiency)
Sharpies
Colour pencils
Sketchbook
Computer cable
Laptop
3 blank notebooks
Pencils
Scientific calculator
Anti-bug supplies
Mosquito net
Sleeping sheet treated with insecticide
2 cans Permethrin clothing and gear treatment spray
3 cans Ben’s 30% DEET tick and insect repellent
4 tubes UltraThon inset repellent
Preventative Health Items and Meds
4 packages Chlorine Dioxide Water Purification Tablets
1 Water purification filter system with bag
1 International travel medical kit with syringe and sutures
SteriPen water purifier
Moleskin
Medical gloves
Non-stick gauze pads
Band-aids
Cotton balls
Medical tape
Tums (lots of these, not surprisingly I’ve had a sour stomach for weeks)
Dayquil
Nyquil
3 small bottles antibacterial hand sanitizer
20 packets Emergen-C
Thermometer
Homeopathic throat spray
Tylolhot (some sort of powder you add to hot water that I bought in Turkey once, the best cure for a head cold or flu you can find)
Imodium
Zantac
Allergy meds
Tylenol
First aid ointment
Antifungal cream
2 bottles SPF 70 face sunscreen
Hibiclens (surgical strength antibacterial soap)
Multi vitamins (Nature Made Multi for Her)
Hydrocortisone cream
HS3 (a homeopathic cure-all salve)
Ace bandage
Entertainment
DVD’s
Various fitness DVD’s (Jillian Michaels Power Yoga, Yoga Booty Ballet, Hip Hop Abs and Morning AM Yoga)
IPod
Small, battery powered, iPod speaker
Nook
Quiddler
UNO
Photo album with family photos
Yoga mat (a serious luxury item, I realize)
Reference Books
Work-related reference books:
RealWorld Evaluation
The Good Enough Guide: Impact Measurement and Accountability in Emergencies
The Sphere Project Handbook
SPSS: Survival Manual
Principles of Statistics
The Arabic Alphabet: How to Read and Write it
Bible
Toiletries
Super absorbent camping towel
6 small packets of Kleenex
4 razors
Floss
4 Chapsticks
2 packets of 30 facial cleansing towelettes
Q-tips
Hair ties
Bobby pins
Headbands
Baby powder
3 bars soap
2 toothbrushes
Scrunchies
Finger-nail brush
Eye cream
Night cream
Baby wipes (family pack)
2 deodorants
2-in-1 everyday clean shampoo and conditioner
Vaseline
Hairbrush
2 large containers contact lens solution
2 small bottles contact lens solution
Extra contact lenses (6 month supply)
Emory board, cuticle sticks, nail clipper
Small mirror
Miscellanea
Fabric and a dress pattern to have a dress made for Jyn and Josh’s wedding (yay!)
Camelback and backpack
Tote bag for grocery shopping
Stuffed animal
2 pairs of glasses
2 pairs of sunglasses
2 solar powered watches
Leatherman multi-tool (the use of which is probably the most likely source of danger for me in Africa)
Sewing kit
2011 weekly planner
Water bottle
Lighter
Chewing gum
Camera
Money-belt
24 AA batteries


Note for second career option: This all fits into 2 large bags + 1 carry-on and a purse, all of which I can carry by myself for at least 15 minutes. I can see the business cards now…

Jennifer Neelsen.

Services offered include: ruthless German efficiency and organization

applied to luggage planning and packing.

HOW TO PREPARE TO MOVE TO AFRICA IN 3 WEEKS:

If you ever find yourself needing to move to the heart of Africa in 3 short weeks, may I suggest that the following are things to do/ think about:
1. Constantly have a pen and paper handy (even in the middle of the night) for those moments when you suddenly think of something you have to do/ have before you go. These are generally things that you think you couldn’t possibly survive without. For example, surgical strength soap, extra batteries for your flashlight and the stuffed animal you’ve had since childhood. (yes, I’m 26 years old—so what?)
2. Hug everyone. Do this multiple times if possible. This is not part of some morbid “what if I never see you again” scenario. Rather, it is for 2 reasons. (they are both selfish) First, hugs let your friends and family know how much you love and appreciate their support. (Thanks!) If they don’t know, they may not feel bad about not sending you emails, commenting on your blog (hint), Skype-ing with you, writing you letters and including you in their prayers. Guilt is a powerful motivator. WAY better than good-will.
Second, strangers do not hug you (regardless of the continent, I recommend staying away from those who do) Since you will be moving to a new place where you do not know anyone, everyone will be a stranger at first. Hugs from sane people will be sparse. Physical contact with others is important. It keeps you grounded, healthier and happier. Get them in now, while you still can.
3. If you are afraid of getting sick, rickety planes, germs, smelly people, different people, other people in general, not knowing what the heck is going on, not having a plan, not sticking to a plan, having a plan totally screwed up by Dutch baggage handlers, not understanding taxi drivers when they speak to you, not understanding if someone is a taxi driver or just a guy with a car, traffic without rules, bathrooms without toilets, opening your mouth in the shower, not showering, second hand smoke, other people’s babies sitting on your lap, other people’s goats sitting on your lap, or being outside of your comfort zone in any way, GET OVER IT. Worrying will not help, these things will likely happen, just accept them and revel in the adventure of life.
4. You will have to get a lot of shots. A LOT. Also, it will not be possible to get all of these shots in one place. Only some physicians will be able to give you certain vaccinations. You will have to call around. Doctors offices will not return your calls. Its useful to know that if the CDC lists a clinic as offering yellow fever vaccinations, that does not mean that clinic offers yellow fever vaccinations. It does not even mean that the medical assistant answering the phone will have ever heard of yellow fever. She will also not schedule you an appointment. Also, note that some vaccinations interact negatively with others. Your doctor(s) will not tell you this. Despite your advanced degree in International Public Health, you may not know this. You pharmacist may in fact utter the phrase, “Well, at this point, I’d say you have to decide if you want to get malaria or typhoid… because you can’t take both pills in time.”
5. Have confidence in yourself and your dreams. If you have always wanted to move to Africa to do aid work, if you’ve been talking about it since you were a teenager, if you spent a lot of money and time getting a Master degree to prepare you to do this, they go confidently forward. Even if the VAST majority of other people tell you that you are insane, crazy, nuts, out of your mind, brave?, have totally lost it etc. Conviction makes up for a lot.
6. Listen to the advice of your friends. Some gems:
a. From Sara- Soak up all the positivity you can before you go. Have fun, avoid the drama. You’ll need those memories.
b. From Clayton- Shut up and stop worrying about it. For God’s sake, you’re moving to Sudan, stop worrying about the little crap, prepare your heart.
c. From my mom- Jennifer, you’re too trusting, remember that there are bad people out there.
d. From Darren- You are NOT going to Sudan to personally save every child. You are there to measure them. Do not do anything stupid, it probably won’t help the little feckers anyway.
e. From Dolores- WATCH YOUR PURSE!… (you have all your belongings stolen by an Italian thief once and you hear about it for life)
7. Recognize how very, very fortunate you are to have such amazing friends, supportive and loving family members, the chance to do your dream job and make the world better while you do it, the opportunity for adventure, and the luck to have had such great mentors (Nathan and my dad), bosses (Nancy, Eleanor, Annette, Isabelle) colleagues (Apollo, Jasenko, Sofia, Meg, Chelsea, Peter. Lilian), teachers (Mrs Barnes, Sue, Nathan again, Sabrina) and friends (far, far too many to list).
8. Do not despair if you go to the drugstore every single day before you leave. You need lots of baby wipes, sunscreen, q-tips, immodium, soap, and band-aids to mount a one-woman, year-long expedition to Yambio.
9. Try, really, really try to pack in such a way that you can carry ALL of your bags at once for at least 15 minutes. There is a fine line between over packing and good preparation. You probably never need more than you can carry.
Have fun, you’ll make it. At some point you may even find yourself sitting in the airport in Kenya, waiting to get on a flight to Juba, writing a blog post, chuckling at your stress.